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Saturday, October 18, 2008

Salt, Shellfish, & Grapes

Another great thing about Dubrovnik is the varied day trips available. Coming up we have trips to Montenegro and Bosnia planned, but today it was off to Ston and the Peljesac peninsula. Ston was an important part of The Republic of Dubrovnik for one reason, the salt pans found here. Historic evidence suggests these salt pans have been in use for some 4,000 years, and to this day they still produce salt using the same ancient traditions. Salt was “white gold”, and to protect this profit center, the republic built a massive defensive wall. The wall, referred to as the “Great Wall of Croatia”, is the second largest in Europe, and runs from Ston on one side of the peninsula, to Mali (little) Ston on the other. Today over 5km and 20 towers remain making the top of the wall a great hike.

Another fun industry in Ston is the mussel and oyster farming. These “sea gardens” are all over and produce some world famous shellfish. We watched them harvest some mussels while we were there and didn’t hesitate to try them in a variety of dishes. And what would go nice with a plate of oysters? How about a glass of wine? It just so happens the peninsula is also the premier growing region for Croatia’s finest wines. We stopped by several wineries for a taste, all of them busy finishing up with this year's harvest. The predominant grape grown here is Plavič Mali, which is said to be a direct descendant of Zinfandel.
Cole watching them clean the newly harvested mussels.
Some of the many "sea gardens" in the area.
Tagliatelle with a mussels sauce and mussels in a white wine and garlic sauce.

Working our way across the "Great Wall of Croatia".
Looking down on Ston with the salt pans in the background.
This is one of the mining carts used to harvest the salt and transport it to the storage barns.

The fresh-picked grapes were perfectly sweet.
This farmer was making his own private batch of wine.  After using the press to extract all the juice, he collects the rinds to make brandy.
This is the collection point for a wine co-op with 330 grape farmers.  The kids are busy surveying the action as the farmers line-up to drop off this year's crop.