5 Passports: Two Birthdays and then Two Islands

Finally back in Croatia, we arrived Split with the intention of spending one night and then heading out to some islands. Our reservation in Dubrovnik was eight days away so we had time to kill. When we left Split the last time, our friends said they would help us find a place for the night when we got back. Well we’re back and did they ever deliver. Their father was out of town on a fishing trip and had his beachfront apartment all ready for us. We quickly decided one night would simply not do. So one night became two and then three. We ended up relaxing and having both Cole’s and Angie’s birthday bash at the apartment.

After that it was time to venture on. Croatia holds the largest number of Islands in the Adriatic (over 1,100 of which around 60 are occupied) and we thought we better visit a few. Our first ferry took us to Hvar Town on the Island of Hvar. Hvar is promoted as “The Sunniest Spot in Europe”, and with the recent increase in tourism to Croatia, this island gets a lot of the attention. With high season over, we spent a couple of perfect days just exploring the area and wading in the crystal clear water.

From Hvar, our next boat delivered us to Korcula Town on, you guessed it, the island of Korcula. (I promise not every city shares a name with the island.) We arrived late at night, but the dock was full of people offering private accommodations (very standard in Croatia). We told everyone we needed 3 nights, wanted 4 or 5 beds, no stairs (these seaside towns can be steep as we learned in Hvar), a sea view, and a location somewhat near the old town. We ended up following an old man that said his apartment fit the criteria and oh boy did it. He opened the front door to reveal a two-story living room with a wrap-around balcony on the harbor. While the kids were jumping up and down, Angie and I just played it cool and told him it would do. It was 2500 sq. ft. in all, and by far the closest thing to a house we’ve had since we left the States. Like Hvar, we spent our days lazily wandering the town and playing in the water. Oh, and if I haven’t mentioned it yet, school has started for the Staehling kids. As hard as it is sometimes, that has been part of the daily routine as well.

Part of the party took us to this park down the street.

Cole and Ella playing a little soccer on our deck.

Mom's turn for birthday treats. And everyone got their favorite Croatian pastry instead of cake.

Here's the troops relaxing with a movie after a long day. Ella definitely had enough for today.

When we arrived Hvar, our host offered to drive us up the hill to our apartment. She didn't know what she was in for! It took her three loads in this mini Fiat to get all five of us and our luggage.

This picture of the Hvar Fortress is taken from our kitchen porch.

This photo is taken from a defensive position inside the fort.

The main square (trg in Croatian) in Hvar Town.

This friendly Croatian baka (grandma) was busy her goodies in front of the Hvar cathedral.

Looking down towards the harbor off our Hvar porch.

On to Korcula Town.

Ella is on duty!

This little church is just off the main square in Korcula. The tower in the background is part of the house belonging to Marco Polo. The locals say he was born here in 1254, while the folks in Venice will argue he was born in Venice.