Ciao for Now

We are leaving for Tuscany today. Our bags are nearly packed, and we are taking care of all last minute details before we leave the big city. The kids are looking forward to riding in a car once again. They don't appreciate yet, what good exercise they've had covering every inch of the city centre by foot. Nor do they realize how much money we've saved on gas! Nonetheless, everyone is excited about venturing off into the Tuscan countryside. We will be gone for about 2-1/2 weeks. (We have linked the first two locations where we'll be staying in the Itinerary column on the right hand side). While the kids have their minds set on swimming in the pools all day every day, we have lots of little day trips planned to get the most out of our rustic retreat. We may not have internet access for a little while, so bear with us as we make our trek into wine country. I'm sure we'll have plenty of stories (and photos) to share once we return. Arrivederci!

Italia 3 - Belgio 1

It's so surreal sometimes. We were hanging around the apartment yesterday (which feels more and more like home lately) and then all of a sudden...it's time to head out and go see the Italian National Team play soccer down the road. We saw Italy take on Belgium in their only preparation match for Euro 2008 which starts in about a week. Since the training facility is here, they usually play these types of games in town. It was a totally different experience from the last match. We had great seats, right next to the field this time. It was great being so close as Cole and I watched in amazement at the awesome skills these guys have. Originally we tried to sit in the same section as last time but were told only Italians could sit there. Who knows why. Since it was a friendly match, there wasn't the constant singing or full "cage" of enemy fans, although it was still loud. It was a night game and I only had my little point-and-shoot camera, but I thought I'd post a couple photos. By the way, be sure to notice the top of the glass fence in front of us.  WeI love this sport and can't wait to attend some matches in Croatia and Rome.

Fun with Frescoes

Can I just say, "I LOVE Florence!!"? This city never ceases to amaze me. I guess if you love art, food and wine - this is the place to be. Of course you can get delicious food and wine throughout most of Italy. But here, in Florence, the art is just unbelievable. I don't think I would ever, and I mean ever, run out of inspiration in this city. I'll be sad to leave here when it's time to move on.

We signed the family up for a fresco painting class at the Palazzo Vecchio the other day. What a fun adventure! We had a little lesson in how the sand used in making the plaster was brought in from the Arno River. No sand from the sea, or ocean, could be used because the salt would adversely effect the lime from the plaster and change the colors of the painting over time. Children back in those days would help the artists prepare their pigments. They would grind different stones and earth in mortar and pestle to create the powdered colors. Some stones were imported from different trade routes, such as India, and had great value. Just by looking at a fresco and seeing what colors were used, you would immediately know the wealth of the client.  

Here we are, taking our own dabs at fresco painting. Even though our instructor had already plastered our tiles and prepared the paints for us, we had such a joy working with this new medium. Bret even let the artist in him shine through!

This is how the powdered paint is sold in art stores.

Playtime!

Parks and playgrounds are not very easy to find in Florence. But after talking with some locals, and walking lots of miles, I think we've found them all.

The Center of Attention

The most prominent structure in Florence has to be the Duomo, technically called Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore. Almost everywhere you turn you can see the giant dome towering over Florence. We've attended mass here, toured the inside, and climbed the dome. You can't help but make this structure an integral part of your stay. Construction of the Cathedral started in 1296 and lasted 170 years (although the facade was actually not finished until the 1800's). The dome was by far the largest in the world when finished, and would remain that way until St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican City was finished, 150 years later. The fresco covering the interior of the dome, is almost 40,000 sq. ft. and remains the largest fresco painting in the world. It took 11 years to complete and was worked on by several prominent artists. Here's a small taste of all the Duomo shots.

Three New Statues Added In Florence

More singing in the street!

Italians love their music and you often hear a beat everywhere you go.  Day or night you'll always find street performers, and most are really good (but more on that in a later post).  Sometimes late at night from our apartment you'll hear someone singing opera.  A few nights ago it was more than that and seemed to be getting louder and louder.  Curiosity finally got the best of me, so at 11pm I stumbled outside to find the streets filled with a large candle-lit procession.  After following the crowd to the church, which had overflowed into the streets, I later figured out that it was The Feast of Corpus Christi (a day in which Christians commemorate The Last Supper). But many times, like this afternoon, you just pass a church with the doors open and stumble upon an orchestra or a choir.  Today it was a children's choir of all things.  Our kids didn't want to leave, and neither did Angie or I for that matter.  

There's always a festival!

Every time you enter a piazza there's something else going on it seems.  Festivals are definitely the rule and not the exception.  I guess when your city is a few thousand years old, there's bound to be a few historical events to celebrate.  This weekend it was the Bonfire of the Vanities.  This celebration stems from a Italian Franciscan preacher named Girolamo Savonarola.  In 1494, at a time when the Medici power was weakening due to the Italian-French wars, Savonarola became the leader of Florence and had the Medici's exiled.  He focused on the excessiveness of the powerful and wealthy at a time of growing misery among the working class.  In 1497 he organized the Bonfire of the Vanities in which he and his followers went door-to-door collecting items associated with vanity.  They gathered items such as mirrors, cosmetics, fancy clothes, art, musical instruments, and gaming items, and burnt them in front of Palazzo Vecchio.  When the economic trouble continued, the people started to question his preachings.  In 1498, his convent was attacked and he was arrested and to be executed, by order of the pope.  Yes, of all people, the pope who according to Savonarola, was one of the wealthy living a little too well.  On May 23, 1498 (510 years ago this weekend), he was hung and burned at the stake in the same spot as his own  bonfire the previous year.  In the 20th century, the Catholic Church changed their position and ruled the execution unjust and intolerable.  Today a plaque sits at that deadly spot in the Piazza, and they instead celebrate his contributions to Florence.  Below are a few photos from the ceremony.

Bottega dei Ragazzi

During our first few weeks in Florence, we've been able to find a couple of gems for the kids. One is St. James Church, which caters to the English community and has a great children's library of english books and DVD's.  Tomorrow we're attending an arts and crafts play group there.  Another great find is  Bottega dei Ragazzi. On some occasions we've gone there just to play with the many games and toys, while on others we took advantage of the various workshops they offer.  It's been a good in-road for the kids to play with other children and the kids have really enjoyed the classes.  I think the teachers liked having the English kids as it gives them a chance to challenge themselves with a new language, which translates to a lot of one-on-one time for Cole, Mia, and Ella.  Below are a few of the projects they've worked on, including giant postcards (meant to be sent to children from the past) and wizard hats.


The facility they use is actually an old orphanage from the 16th century.  This photo shows one of their original fresco paintings depicting life in the orphanage.  The next photo is just a painting the students made.

After class they did a little face painting, and no this is not Angie, although it looks like her from the back.

Field Trip # ????

Living in Florence for a month, you actually just get past the hump of feeling like a tourist and life seems a little more slowed down. You're not rushing in and out of the city to squeeze all the "must sees" in a day. You have a little more time to see things off the beaten track. And the amazing thing is, most of these gems are things we've stumbled upon as we stroll through town. They are the places not mentioned in our guidebooks.

Here is a place we visited, the Scuola del Cuoio (School of Leather), just yesterday afternoon. The school was started by the Franciscan friars of Santa Croce after World War II to give war orphans a chance to learn a practical trade with which to earn a living. Florence is known for its leather and you'll find it in almost every store window and vendor's cart in town. There are so many beautiful handbags and sporty little jackets (not to mention shoes!!), that the temptation to buy a winter coat in mid-Spring is overwhelming!

My daughter Mia (for those of you who don't know) is a very creative person. She was at full attention the entire time as we weaved our way through the corridors. So many different hues, textures, beading, and roping for stitching...it was a creative person's dream! Anyway, here are a few pictures. I think we probably could have taken many, many more....but you get the idea...

Adhering a zipper to a bag

A few more pictures from around town...

This one is taken right in front of Palazzo Vecchio showing the "David" with the Duomo in the background.  Look close and you'll see a little pigeon that found his way into the photo as well.

Ella kickin' it at the library (Biblioteca).

Cole with the Florence Crossbow Team.

This Rolls Royce pulled up right out front.  Unfortunately it was not for us.

No, Angie has not started her own business here.  At least not yet.

A night out for Pizza!

Artists abound in Florence.  These folks are sitting just down river from the Ponte Vecchio, looking back that direction and sketching away.

Ella taking a little rest.

This one was taken at Boboli Gardens looking back towards Palazzo Vecchio.

This walkway separates the Uffizzi Gallery and the Arno River.

And we even have time to squeeze in some homework.