The main market square, which is supposedly the largest in Europe, is full of musicians, artists, flower stalls, and numerous cafes. It’s a great spot to hang out and people watch. Before 1989 the communist government shut down all businesses in the square, as they did not want people to congregate here. “The people should be at home resting, for a rested worker is a productive worker”, they said.
Our favorite spot on the square was St. Mary’s Church. The inside was richly decorated with huge chandeliers, a ceiling filled with a nighttime sky of stars, and an amazing 500 year-old medieval altar that was carved in wood. Outside the church seems to have two towers, but only one we found out belongs to the church. The other is the municipal watchtower from which the town watchmen kept an eye out for the enemy. Legend has it that during the first Tatar invasion in 1241 he sounded his bugle to alert the townspeople, but before he could finish the tune, an arrow pierced his throat. Today, a bugler plays the hejnal song every hour on the hour and stops halfway through in remembrance of this historical event. It’s a beautiful sound as it echoes out over the square. Twelve different buglers, that otherwise work as firemen, take turns working a 24-hour shift in the tower. They happened to open the tower during our stay for the Constitution Day celebration, so we took advantage of making the climb and visiting with the bugler.
