One of the most popular rituals in Budapest is the thermal baths, or “taking the waters” as the locals say. With the weather a bit chilly we weren’t sure if we could fit it in, but the baths are open year-round and we were told the colder the weather the better, so off we went. The city has over 100 natural springs and some two-dozen thermal baths. While these spas traditionally served a medicinal purpose, today they’re just as much about the recreation. After World War II, the baths were all taken over by the communist government, and today are still owned by the city. We choose the Szechenyi (SAY-chehn-yee) Baths, both for it’s convenience and historic significance.
Your first time can be a little intimidating, as they don’t make the process easy. There’s a complex payment and locker-rental system along with lengthy menus of massages and other treatments. After we finally figured it out, we made our way to the first pool. The indoor section of the baths is one pool after the next, each advertising the temperature and medicinal qualities (as some pools have more minerals). Temperatures range from about 86 degrees to 104. The water actually bubbles up at 170 degrees, so they add cold water to regulate the temps. With the outside temps a bit brisk, we tended to gravitate toward the pools around 100 degrees. Outside were three large pools; one for playing, one for relaxing, and one for doing laps. I’m sure you can guess which one we spent most of our time in.
